I had planned to bring you another roundup of jewelry at New York Fashion Week, but after watching the Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear shows on Vogue.com, I realized that one collection stood head-and-shoulder-dusting earrings above the others: Oscar de la Renta.
Creative Director Peter Copping, who took over after the death of Mr. de la Renta last year, presented some of the most sumptuous yet wearable clothes of the season. The intriguing jewelry accompanying his designs served as an integral part of his vision for spring, not, as is sometimes the case, like the afterthought of less experienced designers.
Following top positions at Louis Vuitton and Nina Ricci, Copping was more than ready to helm the House that Oscar built. In a touching tribute to the master, Copping called on his predecessor’s love of Spanish culture as his general design influence, and de la Renta’s favorite flower – the dark red carnation – as his particular collection motif.
Mr. de la Renta, when he lived in Spain as a young man, was known to have worn a dark red carnation in his buttonhole every day.
In Vogue’s review of the Oscar show, I learned that Spanish bullfighting fans throw red carnations into the ring to show their loyalty. Copping’s designs include captivating carnation prints, rich fabrics, and a good deal of black lace to evoke the romance of Spain. The models’ low pony tails, secured by simple black bows, recalled the matador’s hairstyle.
Many daytime and nighttime looks were paired with oversized earrings made of embroidered braid and pompoms, reminiscent of the trim on a bullfighter’s opulent costumes. More formal jewelry designs included to-the-shoulder droplets of multi-colored crystals, promising that “statement earrings” are here to stay through spring.
Look for Oscar de la Renta fashion jewelry at better department stores and boutiques, or visit oscardelarenta.com. To see the entire Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-to-Wear collection, click here.
Sources: Photos courtesy of Vogue.com